Germany has lived under disastrous leaderships, both not Germans. The first was the Austrian disaster known as Hitler, the second Soviet, Stalin. It should be fitting that on my last day I checked out just a few things.
I started my day first at the Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächtnis Kirchen (Kaiser Wihelm Memorial Church), which the section I was only in was a tiny section of a church that pretty much disappeared under intense bombing during WW2. A new church was built, but this is the part we all really come to see, for it is beautiful even its incompleteness. Something, you get used to in Berlin.
I went to the Käthe Kollwitz museum and had a no show again for picks. They are showing the work of I believe a young woman who is antiwar, but not of the calaber of Kollwitz. Kollwitz, remains, on of the most important draftsman in value in the 20th century. Her talent also becomes a weapon, a weapon that Hitler made sure she did not use during his regime. Like Nolde, and others, she was censored probably because she knew that war was bullshit from day one. Not exactly the person you are looking for to make you posters! The best thing about the collection is you see familiar prints and drawings in person. There are even several with preliminary studies that make you think again. There are some small sculptures, looking like they were done in clay first and cast later. But no more that you could see at the Hirshhorn in DC. With the exception of one of a group of women saying goodbye to their husbands departing for war, which is a sculpture, not just relief. P.S.- This is the best place for cheap posters. Go if you only go in to buy posters!
I went to the Turkish Market over in east Kreuzeberg, and for the first time, both walking through parts of the neighborhood and riding the U1, I got my first glimmer of those who have not exactly benefited yet by that German miracle, for whatever reason. The market is only open Tuesday and Friday, I think, but great produce and fabrics and cooked foods. I found spices, quite nice.
This “Charlie” left me a little confused.
Berlin and Germany continue to reunite after 69 years. If this be prosperity, it sure came at a high price. But the people are moving along. If this is an indication, perhaps we can be hopeful for other countries, as well.